River Ebro Babble

The first time I visited the Delta I was uninspired. I’m not really a lover of flat-lands, I’m a mountain person, so my impression was of a featurless and boring landscape. But if you visit at different seasons it grows on you. When the brown and muddy rice paddies are flooded in the Spring the reflections of sky and water can be magical. A few weeks later the fields are a fresh green as the rice shoots grow. And in the autumn the rice paddies turn to fields of gold. Most of the agricultural work is mechanised now but it is still fun to go when the harvest is in full swing and you can see the huge harvesters at work in the fields. The photo below shows a more traditional method of turning the rice over to dry in the sun.

Turning the rice to sun-dry on Ebro Delta

As far as birdlife is concerned, the Ebro Delta is one of the most important wetland areas of the Mediterranean. The sheer numbers and variety of birds here make it and a “must-visit” destination for any birder. Amongst the 300 bird species that either live on or visit the Delta are herons, gulls, waders, terns, ducks, warblers – far too many to list but including Greater Flamingo, Slender-billed Gull, Glossy Ibis, Savi’s warbler Collared Pratincole and around 70% of the world population of Audouins Gull.

A typical sight on the Ebro Delta

So where do you start with 320square kilometres of lagoons, salt marshes, sand dunes, reed beds, canals and rice fields to explore? First of all, bear in mind that the Delta is shaped rather like an arrowhead divided down the centre by the River making clear North and South areas. Once you are actually on the Delta, the only crossing point from one side to the other is by car-ferry between Deltebre and St Jaume d’Enveja. This natural division makes it more practical to visit one half at a time – allowing at least one day for each side if possible. The flat landscape of the Delta, lack of significant landmarks, and its complex network of lanes and canals can make it very difficult to get your bearings. I recommend that you make the Information Centre and Ecomuseum in Deltebre your first port of call where you can pick up a map and a brochure with some detailed birding itineraries. For a first visit following these routes will help you get your bearings and will direct you to the popular locations at La Tancada, Riet Vell Nature Reserve, Canal Vell, Illa de Buda, and Fangar where there are hides and look-out towers.