River Ebro Babble

“Three Visions, One World” is the slogan associated with the Mora Morisca festival held each year  in Mora d’Ebre. I love the Morisca! It has to be one of my favourite weekends!    Banners fluttering across the streets depict a cross, a moon and a star. Over there I see a group of medieval soldiers. And over there is that a belly dancer? Around the corner a group of mud- smeared people dressed in skins and banging drums..

So what’s it all about? First a brief history:

Between the 8th and 11th Century you probably know that Arabs ruled the Iberian Peninsula. In Southern Catalonia there were large Muslim communities living in the Ebro Valley and surrounding lands. They contributed greatly in the sphere of agriculture being particularly skilled in irrigation techniques which increased the production of fruit trees, olives and vines. The Muslim rulers were tolerant of other beliefs and customs so during this time many Jews also came to live in Spain. They too contributed much in the fields of science, medicine and crafts and also often acted as the “middlemen” between Christians and Muslims.   So, with more agricultural produce, the development of new trades and crafts and with the River Ebro providing an ideal transportation route for goods, the economy flourished.

In the mid 1100′s Count Ramon Berenguer of Barcelona led campaigns against the Muslims in Tortosa,  Fraga, Lleida and Mequinenza and in 1153 he completed his “reconquest” of Catalonia.  However, realising that depopulation and abandonment of farms would be detrimental, Berenguer, along with the Bishop of Tortosa and various Lords of the land signed a document which guaranteed the Muslims their rights of ownership and inheritance.  This co-existence continued for some 300 years. At the end of the 15th Century the Census of Mora d’Ebre shows that there were 34 Jewish families, 51 Muslim families and 130 Christian families and this small town had a church, a synagogue and a mosque.

Sadly, the religious tolerance did not continue and in 1492 the Jews were expelled from Spain. In 1525 Muslims were given the choice of  Baptism or Expulsion. It is the Muslims and their descendants who “converted” to Christianity that came to be known as “Moors”. In reality they were usually only nominal Christians as they continued to practice Islam in secret. Finally, in 1609 the Moors too were expelled from Spain.

So, the Mora Morisca  celebrates and condenses a period in history when 3 cultures  lived together peacefully.  The bunting goes up, flags are waved, balconies are swagged in colourful fabrics or tapestries and lots of the townsfolk dress in costume to add to the feeling that you are stepping back in time.

Woodcarver

Part of the Falconry Show

From Mora Castle, which itself is of Islamic origin, through the narrow back streets and into the squares, the streets are lined with stalls and displays of various crafts, intermingled with  food stalls and open air bars. Here you can watch the skill of the blacksmith, or the woodcutter, smell the spices, have a cup of  Arabian tea, or follow the parades of drums and pipes!  Periodically throughout the weekend  there are shows of falconry, medieval fights, belly dancers and more.

The Mora Morisca this year will be held on 10th and 11th July in the historic quarter of Mora d’Ebre. Come along with the family for a great day out!