Dancing with Devils -The Catalan Correfoc
It was our first Fiesta Mayor in Catalonia. 10 days of party and entertainment and tonight there was to be something called a “Correfoc”. There was an air of anticipation as we stood waiting with the crowds. Suddenly, all the street lights were extinguished and we heard drums in the distance. My skin prickled!
A moment later a huge dragon spouting sparks from it’s nostrils, entered the square. Close behind followed the drummers and dozens of pitchfork-wielding devils. More devils entered the square from the rear. The crowd surged forward into the narrow streets. Then it began! Firecrackers were attached to the prongs of every pitchfork and the devils, intermingling with the crowds, began to dance and run through the streets and alleyways twirling the 5-feet plumes of sparks so that they showered down on our heads! Anyone who tried to escape invited the attention of the devils who would give chase spraying sparks at their feet! It was a simply a 45-minute riot of sparks, explosions, smoke, devils, dragons and drums! In fact it was insane! We were in turn excited, appalled, delighted and terrified! When all the firecrackers were finally spent, the crowd began to chant “agua, agua”. Obliging householders then turned hosepipes on the crowds or threw buckets of water from their balconies!
We returned home, wet, smoky and shaking our heads in amazement. We now knew what a Correfoc was and we’d learned our first 2 Catalan words “corre” – Run! and “foc” -Fire!
