Forget Barcelona – Come to Tarragona!

Posted on May 12, 2010 by Dena

Chances are that if you’ve been to Catalonia you went to either to Barcelona or perhaps the Spanish Pyrenees. Now don’t get me wrong -I love Barcelona and the Pyrenees! But, their popularity does tend to overshadow the rest of Catalonia which is a pity because the there are other places that are well worth visiting. The Province of Tarragona for example which is the southern neighbour of Barcelona Province which has stunning scenery, historic sites and there are less crowds! Let me take you on a quick tour…

To start with there is the capital of the Province – the city of Tarragona itself. Like its big brother Barcelona, which is a mere hour away, Tarragona is located right on the coast with some good beaches, a busy port and fishing harbour. Tarragona is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on account of the exceptional Roman excavations found throughout the city but in spite of that tourism here seems very low key.

The Amphitheatre in Tarragona

The city centre has a wide avenue, La Rambla, which is lined with shops and pavement cafes and leads you to the Balcon del Mediterraneo – a lookout point with panoramic views over the beach and mediterranean. It also has excellent museums, a Gothic quarter, stylish shops and good restaurants. Then there is Reus, a small city only twenty minutes or so from Tarragona. The architect Gaudi -often called “Barcelona’s favorite son” was actually born either in or very near Reus. There is now a fascinating Gaudi Museum and a Modernist Architecture Trail which intertwines with the narrow streets of the main shopping area.

Away from the cities now. If you want off the beaten track with wildlife, nature, birds, walking trails, mountain climbing and stunning scenery you can’t go wrong in Tarragona. There are 3 Natural Parks. The most well-known is possibly the Ebro Delta with it’s lagoons and rice paddies – a hotspot for keen birdwatchers. The other two Parks are inland mountainous areas – Parc Natural Els Ports in Terra Alta and Parc Natural del Montsant in the Priorat area. Both are fantastic areas for walking and mountain climbing whilst The Priorat is also renowned internationally for its fine wines.

In the North East of Priorat are more mountain ranges – Conca de Barbera and Prades where the town most worthy of note is the medieval, walled-town of Montblanc.

Then there is the mighty River Ebro which cuts through Tarragona on the last part of its journey to the sea. The Ebro Valley is green and fertile and grows oranges and mandarines, peaches, pears, nectarines, and almonds.

The Ebro Valley

It is a delight to see in Spring when the trees are in blossom. Dotted along the valley are medieval villages such as Miravet, Tivissa and Rasquera and the city of Tortosa. The River Ebro itself and the dams at Riba Roja and Mequinenza are a magnet for anglers who come for the challenge of hauling in a giant catfish or specimen sized carp.

View Province of Tarragona in a larger map

Moving down to the Costa Dorada: on the edge of the Ebro Delta you will find the pretty fishing ports of Sant Carles de la Rapita, and l’Ampolla. Travelling North small resorts such as l’Ametlla del Mar, l’Hospitalet de l’Infant, Miami Playa and Cambrils. They are not well known to the British but are popular with the Spanish, Dutch, French and German. Better known to the Brits is Salou – one of the earliest package holiday resorts. After falling out of favour it has resurrected itself as a popular family holiday destination thanks to the thrills and spills of Port Aventura Theme Park and the development of Reus Airport.

Well that’s a very quick overview of Tarragona. Beaches, mountains, a magnificent river and everything from Roman remains to white-knuckle rides! A relatively undiscovered gem which is a perfect place for a weekend city break or rural retreat.

So many fiestas – not enough time!

Posted on April 30, 2010 by Dena

I have a dilemma this weekend. It is May 1st tomorrow and it is a holiday here. No shops open Saturday or Sunday! That’s not my problem though. The difficulty is trying to decide what I’m going to do because there are so many things happening this weekend.

Tomorrow morning there is the annual guided walk to the peak of “La Picossa”. This is the mountain that rises up just beyond the town and is a clear reference point from many parts of the town. Not particularly high at 490m but it is a pleasant climb with lovely views over the Mora basin from the top.

At the top of La Picossa

The nice bit is doing it as part of the local community and the picnic after the descent.

Also this weekend is the Wine Fair in Falset. Won’t write too much about that as I’ve already done a post which includes the programme. Really wanted to go to this as we are presently researching and assessing the cellar tours. I know – what a labour of love!

Then a couple of days ago I realised that it is also the Fira de Ramadera in the nearby village of Rasquera. This is a livestock and crafts fair in which the main event is observing the shepherds and dogs bring the goats down into the village from the surrounding mountains.

Further away in Montblanc it is the final weekend of their Medieval Week. This fiesta is centered around the legend of George and the Dragon – who incidentally is the patron saint of Catalonia.

The decision? Well, I’ve climbed La Picossa a few times and I’ve also been hiking the last 2 weekends so I’m going to give the walk a miss. Much as I’d like to go to Montblanc,it is over an hours drive and there are other medieval fiestas later in the year. So… I think tomorrow morning we will go to the Wine Fair. Get home in the afternoon, eat and probably have a nap. Then back to Falset for 11.30pm because the night time programme includes a performance by Soul Machine a great local band. Probably won’t arrive home until about 2.30am (hence the nap!) Which leaves Sunday to go to the craft and livestock fair in Rasquera.

Sorted!

Have a great weekend whatever you are doing in your part of the world!

Thanks for reading.

Wine Fair in Falset – the Gateway to the Priorat

Posted on April 28, 2010 by Dena

This weekend 1st and 2nd of May is the annual wine fair in Falset. Falset is a pretty market town of barely 3000 inhabitants which is the capital of the Priorat region. During this weekend it becomes a showcase for the wines of the Priorat and Montsant and is attended by professionals in the industry as well as the ordinary wine consumer or tourist . The fair will be held in the forecourt of the Castle which has been newly renovated as the “Castell del Vi” -a wine interpretation centre, well worth a vist in its own right. The forecourt of the castle is lined with stands representing the many cellars of the area. You can wander freely and enjoy the atmosphere but if you want to sample the wine you will need to buy a ticket which will entitle you to a set amount of “tastings “of your choice. In addition to the stands there are several events going on around the town and in the villages. The programme is as follows: SATURDAY 1st MAY 11.00: Official opening at Falset Town Hall 16.30: Tasting of vintages 2008 DO Montsant and DOQ Priorat 18.00: Tasting with Wolves. Third “tast amb llops” of the village wines in Gratallops village with live music 50E 18.00: Tasting of great white wines of the world by distinguished sommelier. Artesana theatre Falset. (+34) 977831835 20.00: VideNit (Wines by night) Great garage wines of Montsant offer a tasting at Mas Figueres, village of Marca 21.00: Tango show with wine and Argentinian “empanadas” (little pies) at Avia Porota Restaurant. Reservations (+34) 977831281 23.30: Soul Machine. 10 years celebration of this band. Falset Sports Pavilion. 5E SUNDAY 2nd MAY 10.00: Decade Tasting. Wines from 2000 vintage will be tasted. 11.00: Wine Cuisine Cooking Competition. Town Hall Square 11.00 – 15.00: Tasting at the Mines. Bellmunt Mining Museum 11.00: Tasting of Torroja del Priorat Wines. Cal Compte stately home, Torroja 18.00: Tasting of sweet wines with tea and cakes. Avia Porota Restaurant. (+3) 977831281 20.00: Pairing of Xocovic Chocolates with wines and spirits. Followed by informal supper. Quinoa Restaurant, Falset. (+34) 97783031 OTHER EVENTS

Olive oil fair throughout the days of the wine fair. Introduction to Olive Oil Tasting
Fast-track wine tastin courses throughout the weekend
Agricola Falset-Marca Winery. Exhibitions: Monastical Images. Dry stone walling
Exhibition of classic cars in front of Falset-Marca winery
Exhibition of drawings and poems “The faces of wine” Falset castle
Exhibition of artists of the Priorat. Casal d’Avi, Falset
Open-doors of the participating wineries of the “Wine Route”

As for me – well on Saturday I’ll be wandering the wine stands, calling in on the art exhibitons and hopefully getting in a cellar tour of the one of the wineries. Saturday night I’ll definitely be dancing my old feet off to Soul Machine, a great band that we’ve seen many times on the fiesta circuit! Hope you make it to the fair over the weekend – it’s a great atmosphere!

New flight routes for Southern Catalonia

Posted on March 3, 2010 by Dena

A few more flight options are now available into Southern Catalonia. The brand new airport Lleida -Alguaire situated about 15km North of Lleida was officially opened January 2010. The airline Vueling operated the first passenger flight from there to Paris on 5th February. Vueling will also be operating routes to Palma Mallorca. Ryanair will also operate routes from Lleida to Frankfurt-Hahn and to Milan-Bergamo. Lleida airport will give access into the inland area of Aragon, Huesca and Andorra as well down into the Southern corner of Catalonia. From here in Mora d’Ebre, Lleida is just the same distance as Reus airport so it will be great if destinations in the UK are added. Talking of Reus - Jet2 start a twice weekly flight to Reus from Manchester from the end of May. It will only be operational in summer but it is a welcome addition for people travelling from the North of England.

At time of writing the timetables are as follows:

VUELING (www.vueling.com) from 2nd April

Lleida – Paris (Charles de Gaulle)………..Friday and Sunday

Lleida – Palma, Mallorca…………………..Friday and Sunday

RYANAIR (www.ryanair.com) from 2nd April

Lleida- Frankfurt-Hahn…………………….Friday and Sunday

Leida – Milan-Bergamo………………………Friday and Sunday

Jet 2 (www.jet2.com) from 24th May – 26th September

Reus – Manchester…………………………..Tuesday and Saturday

Calҫotada- The Onion Fiesta! Mes que una ceba!

Posted on February 1, 2010 by Dena

When you come to live in Catalonia, one thing you soon notice is the universal celebration of food! There are fiestas dedicated to cherries, peaches, rice, wine, artichokes (I kid you not!) oysters, oranges – in fact virtually anything that is grown and harvested! During the winter months there is a very special product that is unique to Catalonia and originated here in Tarragona. It is the Calçot. A calçot (pronounced calsot) is a long thin onion – a bit like a spring onion but about the size of a small leek! A “Calçotada” is the event when people get together to eat them – lots of them! There is no special fiesta day, in the case of the calçot there is a whole season! From November through to March tons and tons of calçots are eaten with a traditional sauce made from roasted almonds, hazlenuts, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil and pimiento ground together with a pestle and mortar.

Sometimes you will see calҫots offered on menus in restaurants. Indeed, the first time we saw and ate these tasty onions was in a restaurant before we moved out here permanently. Since we have lived here I am pleased to say that we have discovered the BEST and REAL way to eat calçots – outdoors with a gathering of friends, on a sunny winters day, cooking them over an open fire and sharing lots of other food and wine!

How to Cook and Eat Calçots:
The green tops of the onions and the roots are trimmed a little but there is no need to wash them. They are then placed in neat rows on a wire rack and roasted over hot coals until tender and the outsides are black and charred. Next bundles of them are wrapped in newspaper to keep them warm and traditionally they are served on a tile.
Now the best bit!
First of all remember that a calçotada is not the place for anyone who is overly concerned about their appearance because you are probably going to end up looking a mess!
With one hand you hold the onion at the top and with the other you pull at the bottom and remove the blackened outer layer. This gets your hands nice and black! Then dip the onion in the sauce, getting it coated liberally, throw back your head, lower the onion into your mouth and chomp your way up it! It is delightfully messy! By the time you’ve eaten your way through a dozen or so your hands and face are saucy and sooty and the table is piled high with onion remains.

And if you haven’t got yourself messy enough there’ll always be someone only too glad to smear their sooty fingers on your face!

Of course although the calçots are the star of the show there is more to eat at a calçotada than simply roasted onions. The tables are usually laden with a selection of salads, tortilla, jamon, olives, bread, allioli (garlic mayonnaise) and wine. And after the calçots have been cooked the burning coals are used to cook sausages, pork chops, red peppers… whatever people have taken along!

A humble onion – who would think that you could have a day dedicated to eating it! For me this is the charm of the Catalan way of life- the enthusiasm and celebration of life’s simple pleasures, eating and drinking and being with friends – which after all is what a calҫotada is all about.
As the Catalans say “Mes que una ceba! It is more than just an onion!

The Ebro Delta – a Must for Birders

Posted on January 29, 2010 by Dena

I have to admit, the first time I visited the Delta I was uninspired. I love mountains, so at first I found the flat landscape quite featureless and boring! Now? I love it! I love it for being different. For the wonderful seasonal changes. And of course for the fabulous variety of birds. When the brown and muddy rice paddies are flooded in the Spring the reflections of sky and water can be magical. A few weeks later the fields are a fresh green as the rice shoots grow. And in the autumn the rice paddies turn to fields of gold. Most of the agricultural work is mechanised now but it is still fun to go when the harvest is in full swing and you can see the huge harvesters at work in the fields.

As far as birdlife is concerned, the Ebro Delta is one of the most important wetland areas of the Mediterranean.

A typical sight on the Ebro Delta

The sheer numbers and variety of birds here make it and a “must-visit” destination for any birder. Amongst the 300 bird species that either live on or visit the Delta are herons, gulls, waders, terns, ducks, warblers – far too many to list but including Greater Flamingo, Slender-billed Gull, Glossy Ibis, Savi’s warbler Collared Pratincole and around 70% of the world population of Audouins Gull.

So where do you start with 320square kilometres of lagoons, salt marshes, sand dunes, reed beds, canals and rice fields to explore? First of all, bear in mind that the Delta is shaped rather like an arrowhead divided down the centre by the River making clear North and South areas. It is now easy to cross from one side to the other as a new road bridge has been built between Deltebre and St Jaume d’Enveja. Previously the only means of crossing was via a small car ferry. Nevertheless, this natural division makes it more practical to visit one half at a time – allowing at least one day for each side if possible. The flat landscape of the Delta, lack of significant landmarks, and its complex network of lanes and canals can make it very difficult to get your bearings. I recommend that you make the Information Centre and Ecomuseum in Deltebre your first port of call where you can pick up a map and a brochure with some detailed birding itineraries. For a first visit following these routes will help you get your bearings and will direct you to the popular locations at La Tancada, Riet Vell Nature Reserve, Canal Vell, Illa de Buda, and Fangar where there are hides and look-out towers.

Holiday Dress Codes – What to Wear and Where

Posted on January 29, 2010 by Dena

Hitting the news yesterday was the story about Tesco introducing a shoppers dress code in a supermarket near Cardiff. Apparently it has become the trend to wear pyjamas -outdoors- during the day! Living in Spain we have missed out (if that’s the right term!) on this development. But it did bring to mind the subject of appropriate holiday clothing.

If you visit popular Costa resorts it is quite usual to see women in bikinis and blokes in swimshorts sat at bars and browsing the open-front gift shops on the promenade. What about food shops and supermarkets then on the beachfront? Where do you draw the line? Should people cover up? I’ve certainly been in supermarkets several streets back from the beach and seen women tourists shopping in skimpy bikini tops. In the popular coastal resorts you could argue that the supermarkets exist for the tourists and half-naked shoppers en route to, or returning from the beach are to be expected.

In the rural parts of Spain it is different. Around here, for example, it is a relatively new phenomenon to have foreign tourists. And we are 30 minutes inland from the sea – so the locals are simply not accustomed to seeing scantily clad holidaymakers. The older generation in particular can be offended by it. Last summer we heard that a group of male English tourists were shopping in our local supermarket without t-shirts. The local shoppers complained and security asked them to leave. The guys were pretty amazed at the reaction and remarked that back home no-one would mind, also that they had been in supermarkets eleswhere in Spain without t-shirts and no one had complained. That’s the point though isn’t it? They weren’t at home. They were guests in another country. And they weren’t in Benidorm they were in a rural “non-touristy” area.
It’s a matter of being perceptive to where you are and respecting the local culture. Look around you and observe what is regarded as normal and acceptable.

So, if you don’t want adverse reaction my advice is to just tame down the holiday attire a tad when you are visiting rural towns. Blokes should avoid the bare belly look -whether it is a 6 pack or a beer belly it won’t go down well! And women should avoid bikinis or very revealing tops. A small light cardigan or shawl that will fold up small and fit in your handbag is useful quick cover-up when needed, especially if you plan to visit churches or official buildings. Smart shorts of a decent length should be ok for both sexes. But, be aware that even shorts can look out of place if it is early season and few tourists are around. The Spanish don’t start wearing shorts until the last week of June when summer “officially” starts – no matter how hot it is!

To return to the Tesco story. I’m quite relieved that this shop made a stand. I hope others follow suit and I do wonder, now that the issue has been raised, whether they will next decide to ban the bare-bellied shoppers! What are your thoughts?

Where is the River Ebro then?

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Posted on January 24, 2010 by Dena

It’s a question I get asked very often when I tell people where I live in Spain. Even anglers, who are normally the ones to at least have heard of it are often not sure where this major river is. Well, the easiest way to locate it is to find where it finishes! On a map of Spain find Barcelona and Valencia. About half way between you’ll see an triangular- shaped area of land poking out into the Mediterranean. This is the Ebro Delta where river meets sea. Follow the river up past Tortosa and you’ll come to Mora d’Ebre where we live and have our holiday apartments. Further on you’ll come to the large dams at Riba-Roja and Mequinenza. Both are popular spots for fisherman determined to bag a monster catfish – although catfish of considerable size now inhabit all the Lower Ebro.

For those of you interested in facts and figures the River Ebro is 910 kilometres long and starts in the Cantabrian mountains in the North of Spain. It flows roughly South-east and passes through Logrono, Zaragoza, Mequinenza, Mora d’Ebre, Tortosa and on into the Med. It drains a massive area and flows between the Pyrenees and the mountains of the Iberian System.

The name of the river is interesting too. The Romans named it “Iber” – leading to the naming of the “Iberian Peninsula”. Oh and by the way Ebro is the Spanish name. Here in Catalonia it is always the Ebre.

Wild Winter Weather

Posted on January 19, 2010 by Dena

Just like the UK and Northern Europe we have had some very extraordinary weather in Spain lately. Weather statistics show record high temperatures, record low temperatures and record rainfall for this period in various parts of Spain. In our area, early December temperatures were still reaching 22°C and we were feeling quite smug about our long and gentle Autumn. Suddenly it all changed, temperatures plummeted and on the 14th December there was a heavy fall of snow overnight. It didn’t last long but for 24 hours it was mayhem with schools and roads closed all over the county. We have had an odd flutter of snow in previous winters but nothing like this – so we assumed that this was the worst that the winter was going to throw at us. Wrong! On 7th January it happened again with a massive snowfall followed by temperatures of 0 to -3°C for several days. By the river here it didn’t stick around so long but in just 5 minutes drive out of the valley the snow was easily 30-40cm deep. It was pretty amazing to drive around the area and see vineyards covered in snow and dozens of families snowboarding, sledging and snow-balling. For many Spanish kids it would have been the first time in their lives that they were able to play in snow! A week later temperatures rose and it rained – hard. The combination of rain and melting snow raised the River Ebro by about 5 metres! In between we’ve had gale force winds! We drove over to Tarragona a couple of days ago and the roadside was strewn with branches. We’d previously noticed dozens of trees with their branches weighed down and cracked under the weight of snow and it seems the wind had finished the job off. We tried to go for a walk at the beach one day and very quickly sought refuge in the nearest bar! It was like being sandblasted! And I’ve never before seen waves being almost turned backwards by wind!

It is hard to believe that in 4-5 weeks the Almond blossom will be blooming! It will won’t it? Please!

The Day the Animals went to Church

Posted on January 18, 2010 by Dena

No sooner have the “Bon Nadal” greetings and decorations been taken down there is yet another Saint’s day. January 17th is the Festa Sant Antoni -the Catholic patron saint of domestic animals. The religious story relates that Antoni lived as a hermit in the Egyptian desert where he underwent many temptations by the Devil. His connection with animals arises from a rather vague story about him healing a pig and he is often depicted with a pig as a companion.

As is often the case there is also a connection to a pre-christian Roman celebration. This was a fertility rite in which a pregnant animal was slaughtered and livestock was paraded around the streets. Post-Christianity, this developed into the custom of giving working animals a day off and taking them to be blessed by the Church.

So yesterday morning I woke to the sound of horses whinneying in the square at the top of our street! 10.00am on a Sunday morning and the square was packed with people accompanied by their dogs and cats, a water turtle, a tank of fish, a sheep, horses and carts and donkeys wearing hats! Of course no Spanish fiesta would be complete without food and several fires were roasting salted sardines, tomatoes and onions to make the local country sandwich called a “Clotxa”. Washed down with red wine of course! The trestle tables were topped with checked paper tablecloths and dishes of olives and everyone from babes to grannies ate and chattered.

At 11.00am prompt the church bells chimed. Dogs and donkeys not being accustomed to stand in orderly lines (or at least not together!) it was kind of organised chaos as the people queued at the church steps for the priest to bless their pets. Dressed in white robes, he duly blessed them and splashed them with water – yes even the fish tank!

The blessings over, the parade around town began. The sheep headed the procession walking without leash or tether at the side of his owner!

River Ebro Babble

All about living, working and playing in the River Ebro area of Tarragona, Spain

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