River Ebro Babble

It was a snap decision to go out for a drive this morning.  It was just too perfect a day to stay indoors doing housework or office work.  So off went the computer. Camera, binoculars, water and a few other odds and ends were thrown into a bag and 10 minutes later we were on the road.  All in the name of research you understand so that we can recommend day-trips to our guests! We decided to head into the Terra Alta region which borders our own county of Ribera d’Ebre.  It turned out to be very pleasurable combination of rolling vineyards, medieval villages, the  Els Ports Mountains and ended up with a dip in a lovely mountain pool!

From Mora d’Ebre we headed to Gandesa, from where we took the road towards Bot (TV3531) on which you are immediately in the midst of acres of vineyards.  Being harvest time it wasn’t long before we encountered a tractor pulling a trailer piled high with grapes. Other than 3 or 4 tractors we barely saw a vehicle and we were soon at Bot from where we took the road to Horta de St Joan. As we neared Horta, the Els Ports mountains loomed ahead rising abruptly from the fertile plain.  Horta itself is a village worth spending time in for its medieval buildings, Picasso connection and a superb ecomuseum. But today our destination was the next village of  Arnes.

We arrived at Arnes 50 minutes after leaving Mora.  A small village of only 500 people it enjoys a fabulous position looking out towards the Els Ports Mountains. It has a  Town Hall dating from 1584, which, built from honey-coloured stone and with it’s ground-floor arcade, columns and rows of arched windows makes a very attractive building. One of the traditional products of this town is honey and it’s quite a surprise to find behind the mediaeval facade a state-of- the-art museum about bees and honey production with multi-media presentations and 3D visuals!

Arnes Town Hall

Mind you it seems that this village has always been very innovative! On the outside of the main village you will find a “snow well.” A snow well? Yes – as far back as the Renaissance this mountain village used to conserve snow and ice by keeping it deep underground insulated with blocks of hay.  It was quite a lucrative business selling the snow for chilling food and drinks,  medical purposes and preserving food during transport.  Genius!!

We continued our stroll around the village. We were in need of a drink and we eventually found a little bar tucked in between the houses. We went in and had big surprise!  Inside the bar was big, bright  and spacious – not only that it had a huge terrace out the back with magnificent views of the mountains.

A bar with a view

We sat on the terrace with a couple of beers and a delicious selection of tapas (which came to the “ridiculous”  amount of 6,60 euros) and watched griffon vultures soaring over the mountains in the distance.  It would have been a pleasure just to sit there all afternoon but we’d noticed a sign at the edge of the village pointing to a natural pool and we wanted to go and find it. So off we went.

And we found it!  Now, anyone who knows me well will know that I’m not a water-baby – it takes a lot for me to launch myself into cold water!  But, you know I really couldn’t resist having a dip in this delightful natural pool. It was wonderful. And it was a perfect end to our impulsive day out. Sorry – our research work!  ;)

Toll del Vidre - A natural mountain pool