Forget Barcelona – Come to Tarragona!

Chances are that if you’ve been to Catalonia you went to either to Barcelona or perhaps the Spanish Pyrenees. Now don’t get me wrong -I love Barcelona and the Pyrenees!  But, their popularity does tend to overshadow the rest of  Catalonia which is a pity because the there are other places that are well worth visiting. The Province of Tarragona  for example which is the southern neighbour of Barcelona Province which has stunning scenery, historic sites and  there are less crowds! Let me take you on a quick tour…

To start with there is the capital of the Province – the city of Tarragona itself. Like its big brother Barcelona, which is a mere hour away, Tarragona  is located right on the coast with some good beaches, a busy port and fishing harbour.  Tarragona is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on account of the exceptional Roman excavations found throughout the city but in spite of that tourism here seems very low key.

The Amphitheatre in Tarragona

The Amphitheatre in Tarragona

The city centre has a wide avenue, La Rambla, which is lined with shops and pavement cafes and leads you to the Balcon del Mediterraneo – a lookout point with panoramic views over the beach and mediterranean. It also has excellent museums, a Gothic quarter, stylish shops and good restaurants. Then there is Reus, a small city only twenty minutes or so from Tarragona.  The architect Gaudi -often called “Barcelona’s favorite son” was actually born either in or very near Reus. There is now a fascinating Gaudi Museum and a Modernist Architecture Trail which intertwines with the narrow streets of the main shopping area.

Away from the cities now.  If you want off the beaten track with wildlife, nature, birds, walking trails, mountain climbing and stunning scenery you can’t go wrong in Tarragona. There are 3 Natural Parks. The most well-known is possibly the Ebro Delta with it’s lagoons and rice paddies – a hotspot for keen birdwatchers. The other two Parks are inland mountainous areas – Parc Natural Els Ports in Terra Alta and Parc Natural del Montsant in the Priorat area. Both are fantastic areas for walking and mountain climbing whilst The Priorat is also renowned internationally for its fine wines.

In the North East of  Priorat are more mountain ranges – Conca de Barbera and Prades where the town most worthy of note is the medieval, walled-town of Montblanc.

Then there is the mighty River Ebro which cuts through Tarragona on the last part of its journey to the sea. The Ebro Valley is green and fertile and grows oranges and mandarines, peaches, pears, nectarines, and almonds.

The Ebro Valley

The Ebro Valley

It is a delight to see in Spring when the trees are in blossom. Dotted along the valley are medieval villages such as Miravet, Tivissa and Rasquera and the city of Tortosa. The River Ebro itself and the dams at Riba Roja and Mequinenza are a magnet for anglers who come for the challenge of hauling in a giant catfish or specimen sized carp.

View Province of Tarragona in a larger map

Moving down to the Costa Dorada: on the edge of the Ebro Delta you will find the pretty fishing ports of Sant Carles de la Rapita, and l’Ampolla. Travelling North small  resorts such as l’Ametlla del Mar, l’Hospitalet de l’Infant, Miami Playa and Cambrils. They are not well known to the British but are popular with the Spanish, Dutch, French and German. Better known to the Brits is Salou – one of the earliest package holiday resorts. After falling out of favour it has resurrected itself as a popular family holiday destination thanks to the thrills and spills of  Port Aventura Theme Park and the development of Reus Airport.

Well that’s a very quick overview of Tarragona. Beaches, mountains, a magnificent river and everything from Roman remains to white-knuckle rides!  A relatively undiscovered gem which is a perfect place for a weekend city break or rural retreat.

The Ebro Delta – a Must for Birders

I have to admit, the first time I visited the Delta I was uninspired. I love mountains, so at first I found the flat landscape quite featureless and boring! Now? I love it! I love it for being different. For the wonderful seasonal changes. And of course for the fabulous variety of birds. When the brown and muddy rice paddies are flooded in the Spring the reflections of sky and water can be magical. A few weeks later the fields are a fresh green as the rice shoots grow. And in the autumn the rice paddies turn to fields of gold. Most of the agricultural work is mechanised now but it is still fun to go when the harvest is in full swing and you can see the huge harvesters at work in the fields.

As far as birdlife is concerned, the Ebro Delta is one of the most important wetland areas of the Mediterranean.

Flock of Greater Flamingoes Ebro Delta

A typical sight on the Ebro Delta

The sheer numbers and variety of birds here make it and a “must-visit” destination for any birder. Amongst the 300 bird species that either live on or visit the Delta are herons, gulls, waders, terns, ducks, warblers – far too many to list but including Greater Flamingo, Slender-billed Gull, Glossy Ibis, Savi’s warbler Collared Pratincole and around 70% of the world population of Audouins Gull.

So where do you start with 320square kilometres of lagoons, salt marshes, sand dunes, reed beds, canals and rice fields to explore? First of all, bear in mind that the Delta is shaped rather like an arrowhead divided down the centre by the River making clear North and South areas.  It is now easy to cross from one side to the other as a new road bridge has been built between Deltebre and St Jaume d’Enveja. Previously the only means of crossing was via a small car ferry.  Nevertheless, this natural division makes it more practical to visit one half at a time – allowing at least one day for each side if possible. The flat landscape of the Delta, lack of significant landmarks, and its complex network of lanes and canals can make it very difficult to get your bearings. I recommend that you make the Information Centre and Ecomuseum in Deltebre your first port of call where you can pick up a map and a brochure with some detailed birding itineraries. For a first visit following these routes will help you get your bearings and will direct you to the popular locations at La Tancada, Riet Vell Nature Reserve, Canal Vell, Illa de Buda, and Fangar where there are hides and look-out towers.