Forget Barcelona – Come to Tarragona!

Chances are that if you’ve been to Catalonia you went to either to Barcelona or perhaps the Spanish Pyrenees. Now don’t get me wrong -I love Barcelona and the Pyrenees!  But, their popularity does tend to overshadow the rest of  Catalonia which is a pity because the there are other places that are well worth visiting. The Province of Tarragona  for example which is the southern neighbour of Barcelona Province which has stunning scenery, historic sites and  there are less crowds! Let me take you on a quick tour…

To start with there is the capital of the Province – the city of Tarragona itself. Like its big brother Barcelona, which is a mere hour away, Tarragona  is located right on the coast with some good beaches, a busy port and fishing harbour.  Tarragona is a UNESCO World Heritage Site on account of the exceptional Roman excavations found throughout the city but in spite of that tourism here seems very low key.

The Amphitheatre in Tarragona

The Amphitheatre in Tarragona

The city centre has a wide avenue, La Rambla, which is lined with shops and pavement cafes and leads you to the Balcon del Mediterraneo – a lookout point with panoramic views over the beach and mediterranean. It also has excellent museums, a Gothic quarter, stylish shops and good restaurants. Then there is Reus, a small city only twenty minutes or so from Tarragona.  The architect Gaudi -often called “Barcelona’s favorite son” was actually born either in or very near Reus. There is now a fascinating Gaudi Museum and a Modernist Architecture Trail which intertwines with the narrow streets of the main shopping area.

Away from the cities now.  If you want off the beaten track with wildlife, nature, birds, walking trails, mountain climbing and stunning scenery you can’t go wrong in Tarragona. There are 3 Natural Parks. The most well-known is possibly the Ebro Delta with it’s lagoons and rice paddies – a hotspot for keen birdwatchers. The other two Parks are inland mountainous areas – Parc Natural Els Ports in Terra Alta and Parc Natural del Montsant in the Priorat area. Both are fantastic areas for walking and mountain climbing whilst The Priorat is also renowned internationally for its fine wines.

In the North East of  Priorat are more mountain ranges – Conca de Barbera and Prades where the town most worthy of note is the medieval, walled-town of Montblanc.

Then there is the mighty River Ebro which cuts through Tarragona on the last part of its journey to the sea. The Ebro Valley is green and fertile and grows oranges and mandarines, peaches, pears, nectarines, and almonds.

The Ebro Valley

The Ebro Valley

It is a delight to see in Spring when the trees are in blossom. Dotted along the valley are medieval villages such as Miravet, Tivissa and Rasquera and the city of Tortosa. The River Ebro itself and the dams at Riba Roja and Mequinenza are a magnet for anglers who come for the challenge of hauling in a giant catfish or specimen sized carp.

View Province of Tarragona in a larger map

Moving down to the Costa Dorada: on the edge of the Ebro Delta you will find the pretty fishing ports of Sant Carles de la Rapita, and l’Ampolla. Travelling North small  resorts such as l’Ametlla del Mar, l’Hospitalet de l’Infant, Miami Playa and Cambrils. They are not well known to the British but are popular with the Spanish, Dutch, French and German. Better known to the Brits is Salou – one of the earliest package holiday resorts. After falling out of favour it has resurrected itself as a popular family holiday destination thanks to the thrills and spills of  Port Aventura Theme Park and the development of Reus Airport.

Well that’s a very quick overview of Tarragona. Beaches, mountains, a magnificent river and everything from Roman remains to white-knuckle rides!  A relatively undiscovered gem which is a perfect place for a weekend city break or rural retreat.

New flight routes for Southern Catalonia

A few more flight options are now available into Southern Catalonia. The brand new airport Lleida -Alguaire situated about 15km North of Lleida was officially opened January 2010. The airline Vueling operated the first passenger flight from there to Paris on 5th February.  Vueling will also be operating routes to Palma Mallorca.  Ryanair will also operate routes from Lleida to Frankfurt-Hahn and to Milan-Bergamo.  Lleida airport will give access into the inland area of Aragon, Huesca and Andorra as well down into the Southern corner of Catalonia. From here in Mora d’Ebre, Lleida is just the same distance as Reus airport so it will be great if destinations in the UK are added.  Talking of Reus -  Jet2 start a twice weekly flight to Reus from Manchester from the end of May. It will only be operational in summer but it is a welcome addition for people travelling from the North of England.

At time of writing the timetables are as follows:

VUELING (www.vueling.com) from 2nd April

Lleida – Paris (Charles de Gaulle)………..Friday and Sunday

Lleida – Palma, Mallorca…………………..Friday and Sunday

RYANAIR (www.ryanair.com) from 2nd April

Lleida- Frankfurt-Hahn…………………….Friday and Sunday

Leida – Milan-Bergamo………………………Friday and Sunday

Jet 2 (www.jet2.com) from 24th May – 26th September

Reus – Manchester…………………………..Tuesday and Saturday

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Where is the River Ebro then?

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Riverbank at Mora d'Ebre

It’s a question I get asked very often when I tell people where I live in Spain. Even anglers, who are normally the ones to at least have heard of it are often not sure where this major river is. Well, the easiest way to locate it is to find where it finishes! On a map of Spain find Barcelona and Valencia. About half way between you’ll see an triangular- shaped area of land  poking out into the Mediterranean. This is the Ebro Delta where river meets sea.  Follow the river up past Tortosa and you’ll come to Mora d’Ebre where we live and have our holiday apartments. Further on you’ll come to the large dams at Riba-Roja and Mequinenza. Both are popular spots for fisherman determined to bag a monster catfish – although catfish of considerable size now inhabit all the Lower Ebro.

For those of you interested in facts and figures the River Ebro is 910 kilometres long and starts in the Cantabrian mountains in the North of Spain. It flows roughly South-east and passes through Logrono, Zaragoza, Mequinenza, Mora d’Ebre, Tortosa and on into the Med. It drains a massive area and flows between the Pyrenees and the mountains of  the Iberian System.

The name of the river is interesting too. The Romans named it “Iber” – leading to the naming of the “Iberian Peninsula”. Oh and by the way Ebro is the Spanish name.  Here in Catalonia it is always the Ebre.